European Jaunts

This week, I am progressing in my little timeline I have made for myself and you are joining me as I regale the events of my short tour of the European mainland, mostly managing to confuse myself as to what language I should be speaking at any one time.

I am a millennial and so the first thing I did when I touched down in Amsterdam was to turn my phone off aeroplane mode and tell those who needed to know that I had landed (Free and my folks). I had an email from ThaiAir and no luck on the key there. Nothing from my AirBnb host. Matt couldn’t find it. And then there was a message from Charlie. It told me that he hadn’t dropped his key off yet and he would leave it in a secure location for me.

My legs went weak. I don’t know if I’ve felt such crippling relief before in my life. I was nearly crying. I thanked him so profusely he probably thought it was completely fake, but he was literally the only way I could get into the flat. I had been lowkey panicking for twenty-four hours and I don’t think it’s hyperbole to say that I may have lost five years of my life to it.

Free picked me up at the airport and took me for pancakes which was a fantastic idea and a small hint of what was to come in my next week of exciting Dutch culinary surprises. Pancakes are apparently a Dutch national dish which I embrace wholeheartedly while loosening my belt. And they are not done properly if they are not lathered in maple syrup, sugar, icing sugar or all three. I had to do my guestly duties of course and sample all this.

It was delicious. In fact, all the food I ate all week, even the food I didn’t think I’d like but tried because I had to be polite (beetroot) was so good that I had seconds.

So I had three full days in Delft, a lovely city that seems to be close to a lot of the major cities in the Netherlands (although that might be because the Netherlands is not a very large country) and I realised why a dish the Dutch love is full of sugar and yet there doesn’t seem to be too much obesity problems (I was not looking for it and I didn’t notice it – that is all I know and I’m too lazy to look it up), would be because of the cycling. Cycling is so easy to do here. There are bicycle lanes everywhere and while cyclists don’t necessarily have right of way, if there is an accident involving a bicycle, the cycler is always right. And when you can cycle fifteen minutes into the middle of town, or thirty minutes into a different city when driving would take the same amount of time, plus finding somewhere to park and then walking into the city centre, et cetera, why wouldn’t you?

So the first day, we cycled into Delft, and saw the Leaning Tower of Delft, only slightly less famous than that in Pisa. The thing is, in Delft in the Olde Kerk, they noticed it was starting to lean and so corrected it while building, so instead, it’s more of a bendy tower.

Inside the Olde Kerk, I saw the burial sites of a lot of “Dutch Heroes”, of whom I’d never heard, even though one of them “invaded” the UK by sailing up the Thames into London. Of course, I have forgotten which one did that, as I got distracted by a Dutch name I did know – Johannes Vermeer, who lived and died in Delft, and who, when he died was not very wealthy, and so was buried in an upright position, so they didn’t have to spend so much money on his grave.

Then we went to the Nieuwe Kerk (New Church) so named because it was built in the 14th century while the Olde Kerk was built in the 13th. And I saw the OG William of Orange’s tomb in all its finery. This is not the William of Orange that became King of England, since he was the third of that name (and coincidentally the third King William of England as well). This was the first William of Orange of the Netherlands, who led a revolution and was assassinated. It’s actually kind of convoluted and confusing and I had a very interesting time trying to learn about it and giving myself a headache. It also happens to be the tombs of the current Royal family, so whenever any of them die, there is a huge procession and stuff for them to this church in Delft, which is pretty cool.

We broke for lunch, during which I backhanded a wasp by accident and didn’t feel bad as it was trying to eat my pastrami sandwich, and it wasn’t as dazed as the one I yeeted (yote) across the square with a menu for trying to get into my Fanta, before we tackled the New Church tower. It was very tall, and out of my comfort zone in two ways. One; it turns out that I can jump out of a plane no problems, but standing 500ft off the ground in a structurally sound church was not a good thing for me (I channelled Donkey’s mantra: “Just keep moving don’t look down”) and two; steps that have gaps between them cause severe discomfort in the form of hugging the central pillar or the handrail when someone is trying to pass me in the opposite direction and not talking while on the move (although on the way up that might have been due to lack of ability to breathe too) all the while wishing that I couldn’t see through the steps down below where I was standing or up to see how far I had to go.

But comfort zones are there to be scoffed at so I went to the top and marvelled at the view while reconsidering my Ravenclaw house status, since the common room is at the top of a Tower too. Just kidding (mostly).

Incidentally, the tower here is also pretty interesting, as they first started building it in the classic red brick, but they wanted the tower to be fancy, so they continued it in white brick, and then ran out of money, so had to finish it with cheap white brick which over time goes black, so the Nieuwe Kerk tower is a tricolore. The height you get up to is in the black part and it is very high.

After my shaky legs continued to be my biggest fans and supported me back down the stairs of Doom, Free suggested ice cream and I think I said yes before she stopped speaking and it was delicious.

Unfortunately, it also put me into a sugar coma during the boat tour and I ended up falling asleep, despite my best efforts to stay awake. This was much to my chagrin as it was a really interesting tour and I learned a lot during the bits I was awake for.

Then it was time for cheese. I was sad at first because I didn’t think I could take any with me, because China has some funny import laws, but it turns out you can take pasteurised cheese with you, which Gouda generally is. I bought some before you could say cheese and I have enjoyed it immensely.

Then, with a quick detour to a windmill (because Netherlands, duh) it was time to cycle home.

Day 2 was arts day. Today we went to The Hague, and my bottom told me that I was definitely not cycling fit and that it protested against a repeat offence. This may have been due to the fact that Dutch people are tall and the Beerses’ bikes at their lowest levels were still slightly too tall for me. This was only a problem when I had to stop, and nearly toppled a couple of times; I could still cycle fine. But my bottom didn’t like it.

Luckily the Hague wasn’t too far away, and I was rewarded with the possibility that I might have ended up on Dutch TV, as we walked behind a reporter person doing their thing while being watched by cameras as we passed through the Dutch parliament. We saw their PM’s office and then went to a museum and William of Orange’s personal art gallery, during which I saw literally the funniest painting I have ever seen and cannot get over. Even looking at my photo of it makes me laugh aloud.

I also saw paintings by famous artists that I had heard of: Rembrandt, Vermeer, Rubens, and by those who are supposedly famous but I had not heard of: Gerard ter Borch, Carel Fabritius, Jacob van Ruisdael and Paulus Potter, to name a few. It was very interesting going to an art museum with an art historian, something I’d never done before as she told me several things that were actually really interesting. I have to admit that I have never been much for art or art history, but that’s because I realised fairly early on in life that I didn’t have much talent for art and so I wrote it all off in one go. So having someone there who knew their stuff and also knew how to not make it boring was pretty awesome. And I saw some famous paintings up close, including Scarlett Johansson.

But as an art luddite, by the end of the day, I was all arted out, so with aa stop at the supermarket for ingredients for dinner, it was time to go home for more delicious food! The Netherlands food is fantastic and I love it.

In the evening, it was almost compulsory for us to watch The Girl with the Pearl Earring, so we did, and as some of it was filmed on location in Delft, it was somewhat disconcerting to see Scarlett Johansson and Colin Firth travel around the same places we had just been the day before.

My final day was much quieter, due to the fact that Free had to work, so I did some work of my own before heading out into the sun and catching some rays of European sun.

The next day we were up bright and early for I was travelling by coach to Germany! I love that I can do this in Europe. In China, it takes me two hours to get across the city I live in. two hours in Europe can get you into a different country.

Ten hours can get you stuck in traffic in Frankfurt, but I’m really not complaining, honest. There’s nothing like being stuck on a warm bus while it’s a beautiful day outside and you are being driven through actual story book countryside. It took me too long to find my camera to get a picture of the most stereotypical German town I’ve ever seen, but the image will stay in my head forever.

Despite all the travel I had a lovely evening with my friends in the Airbnb we were at, catching up and having them ribbing me gently about how often I spoke about China. It was just like old times and I loved it.

The next day was the wedding itself and let me tell you, organising twelve people through the shower wasn’t easy but somehow we managed it and we were all suited and booted and ready to go on time. In fact, the car comrades were early enough to sneak in a quick bev before the other guests started arriving, although Lewis did have a misadventure with alcohol-free beer.

I cried. Everyone cried.  We all needed tissues, seeing our two closest friends express their love for one another, Maggie doing it in a language that was not her native tongue. It was a magical moment, made even more so by the very apt addition of some Lord of the Rings music. And then the festivities began, and much drinking was done. I tried to be careful and not overdo it immediately, and I’m afraid to report I only partially succeeded. I remember the whole night, up until when I fell asleep by the fire, but the clarity of my memories does fade in and out, as attested to by the killer hangover I woke up to the next morning. But breakfast and plentiful water cured it in time for a quick jaunt to a nearby lake for a cooling swim.

The rest of that Sunday passed lazily as we were all fairly tired, and most of us had to get up early the next morning as we all departed to various corners of the planet. I completely unpacked and repacked while we played games and casually watched Hot Fuzz and Ghostbusters.

The next thing I knew, I was getting up at six thirty in order to catch a train, to catch a plane, to catch the MTR, to catch the highspeed train, to catch the Metro, to catch a taxi, back to my flat in China. My European tour was over and it barely felt like it had started. But other than one aging twenty-four hours, I had a total blast that was comp

Homesteadventures

As started in the previous episode, after Hong Kong I was headed home, ostensibly for Josh and Maggie’s wedding, but also because I’d promised my re-eneactment friends that I’d go to Evesham in a beautiful circular event, being that the Battle of Evesham last year was where I’d met most of them and where I’d first enquired about joining a medieval battle re-enactment group and was what set the ball rolling to me actually joining the group later in the year. So I had to go.

But first, I had to get back to Worcestershire from London. I landed in Heathrow at a godawful hour of the morning, except that it wasn’t because also – time zones. I had no idea what time it was or how long I’d been awake, or whether I should be awake or not. All I knew was that sleeping on a plane was neither comfortable nor conducive to deep sleep, and I was cream-crackered.

After a mild panic waiting for my bag to arrive (typically, it was one of the last off the plane and so I endured approximately forty-five minutes of heightened anxiety, thinking that it had been left in Thailand (where I’d transferred)), I finally heaved it off the travellator, briefly remembered the toddler that made the news for fulfilling all of our childhood dreams, and then set off for the Underground station.

Travelling through London during and after rush hour was interesting. I was lucky that I alighted the Tube essentially at the start of the line, and didn’t disembark until after the train had entirely filled and then emptied again with glazed-eyed commuters, and so was able to unashamedly occupy a squashy seat that I was utterly unaccustomed to, being that the seats on the Chinese Metros are metal. Travel took me around two hours to get to Matt, Sean and Pippa’s house, which was then a fifteen minute walk from the station, which I was absolutely going to walk since I was now trying to pinch my pennies, not knowing how much money I had in my bank account and only having about £80 on my person, which may have to last me until Monday or longer (this was Wednesday morning).

Matt, being the darling he is, had left me half a loaf of bread and Marmite for me (although I did have to go on a super-quick foraging mission for butter at the nearest corner shop) and I was able to eat toast and drink squash to my heart’s content. I have been telling everyone who’d listen, and those who wouldn’t that I really miss real bread when I’m out in China because they use sugar instead of salt to preserve it and so it tastes sweet and wrong. So I had myself a lot of toast and made a nest on the sofa to wait for people to come home.

This was basically how I spent the next couple of days in London. Vegetating happily, almost speaking Chinese to cashiers, and catching myself at the last minute, and watching a lot of television.

On the Friday morning, I got up what would be considered early but because of the joys of jetlag, I was waking up at stupid o’clock in the morning anyway, and caught the Central tube line from one end to another of it, so that Lauren could collect me and bring me home.

I have the best friends ever, and needed them because my parents, unable to predict that I would be moving to China and needing a lift home from the airport at this particular time, had decided to book a two week holiday in Kyrgyzstan and so were inconveniently unable to pick me up. I had waved to them on the way over and they were landing that same day, just at a time that was not acceptable to me.

I had all of about an hour at home; just enough time to shower and gorge on my favourite meal in the world, before I was heading to Evesham to be a medieval peasant and slaughtered mercilessly by the Royal Army for having the gall to be called up by my Lord to fight for him. You know, the casual peasant problems that every one has.

But first was the obligatory squealing and running and hugging of all my friends whom I had not seen in six months, despite their being what they call sweaty. I soon disabused them of that notion – sweaty is when it’s dripping off your chin and leaving a layer of salt build up on your cheeks – and as soon as the tents were put up, we got down to the business of catching up, while eating fish and chips, and drinking cider, as we didn’t have to be filthy peasants/nobles until the next day.

And filthy we ended up being. While the English summer barely holds a candle to the humid mess that is the Chinese summer, I was running around a field, flailing a sword and wearing a quilt. And I was lightly dressed. So, the by-now-familiar sensation of sweat trickling down my back and further was unpleasantly present. But at least I’d worked for it, whereas here, all I need to do is stand in the shade for a few minutes.

Not only that, but I didn’t care. The adrenaline was flowing and I was forcefully reminded of how much I loved doing re-enactment. I’d been reminded just by seeing my people the night before but nothing compares to the blood pumping as you scream and charge at a wall of shields.

The fights themselves were, on both Saturday and Sunday, were frustrating, but I was still having inordinate amounts of fun. The icing on the cake was that my parents came on Sunday to see what I was doing in my free time and brought my grandparents with them, and I felt truly supported by them, the cherry being that my Dad bought me (for Christmas) my own longbow and four arrows to practice with, as archery is something I’ve wanted to do properly for a long time.

And when I got home? Roast beef and Yorkshire pudding. Am I spoiled? Quite possibly but everyone deserves a little bit of spoiling every now and then. And I was only home for two weeks.

The rest of my two weeks were busy but fairly uneventful. I had a lot of things to do and not much time to do them. Doctors appointments, cross-stitching to get framed, train, bus and plane tickets to book, pictures to look at, relatives and friends to visit, washing to do and bags to pack.

Oh and a historic hall to visit, because no trip to the UK would be complete without it. The trip was arranged by Free, who had just said to me “Oh, I’m going to Aston Hall on Wednesday, do you want to come?” And the answer was yes. The answer is always yes. It helped that Rik, one of our other re-enactment friends was one of the guides there and we went on Wednesday specifically because we knew we would be working that day, and luckily for his job, he proved to be a most adept guide. Aston Hall was built in the 17th century by a man who’d just bought his baronetcy from King James I in the first time a title was able to buy, and it has seen a lot of history since then. Having gone through the pictures I took, it seems I have none of the exterior of the property… Oops.

And then, on the final day, when I was writing a blog post. I talked about using my flat key to open a bottle of cider, as you do, and I thought idly to myself, you know, I haven’t seen that key since then…

Cue frantic searching, and emptying all my bags that had been so carefully packed. Cue being on the edge of tears all night as my parents got in on the hunt. Cue elevated heart rate. Cue low panic levels. Cue not really sleeping as I racked my brain for any and all memories of when I had at last seen that key. Had I actually shown it to my mum in the kitchen, or had I shown it to her over a WeChat call while she was in the kitchen?

I still don’t know the answer to that. I emailed the AirBnb host from when I was in Hong Kong, I emailed ThaiAir, I messaged the London folks to see if they’d found it, I messaged Charlie to ask if he’d left yet and to see if he’d be able to pass a key onto me, since it was not anywhere that we looked in the house. And. We. Looked. Everywhere.

After a mildly sleepless night, Mutti and I were up at the crack of cuckoo, in order that she could get me to the airport and home in time for her first patient, even though my flight to Amsterdam was actually at a fairly pleasant time of day. It meant that I sat in the way of the doors blowing cold English air all over my now maladapted body, since the only seats the wrong side of baggage check in were there, as I waited for it to open for my flight.

And then I was off on the next step of my European jaunt – the Mainland!

And that’s a blog for next time.

Hong Koming – Only a Minor Sidetrip

A mere two days after we’d returned from Guangzhou, with just enough time for me to procrastinate packing, and for Lucy to retrieve her passport from TeachTEFLInChina, we set off for her final adventure; three days in Hong Kong. After the success of arriving in Guangzhou late at night, we were doing the same for Hong Kong, and it worked well. Arriving in the middle of the day had caused us to take an hour at least to get through immigrations; this time it was hardly longer than twenty minutes.

Our first day, we headed to Ocean Park, which was an aquarium, theme park, and safari park all rolled into one. I somehow managed to get zero pictures of the rides (including upside-down ones – something that was lacking at Disneyland Hong Kong) I did get many of the animals, so here’s a dump of them.

The park was split in two, on either side of a mountain, connected by a train that went through the mountain, or a cable car that went over. We obviously opted for the cable car, and I realised that I was no longer as saccharine about floating over a hill as I once was, although I did fairly quickly manage to relax, my heart rate didn’t come to its resting rate until I was on an awesome rollercoaster.

Because it was a Friday, Ocean Park was actually pretty quiet, compared to everywhere else we’ve been and we thought it was because it was a Friday, but it was a pretty common theme for the whole weekend. Its possible that due to the weeks of protests beforehand, there were fewer tourists in general, or we were just lucky in the places we went.

Ocean Park took up the entirety of that first day, and, like Chimelong in Guangzhou, we didn’t get to see it all. At least we didn’t get rained on this time, except for on the water ride when we both got pretty drenched.

Once again I was limping, however as my blister had migrated from the heel of my foot to the side of the heel and was developing into a blood blister. Because of my fun feet fatalities (at least, that’s what it felt like), we headed back to Mongkok, the shopping capital of Hong Kong, and quite by coincidence, our home for the week. We wanted to go to a Chinese food place, since Lucy would only have sup-par takeaways when she got home, but we managed to find a Japanese food place instead, and it was actually one of the best meals we’d had in a while, despite our successful foraging at Mark’s and Spencer for lunch.

Day Two we started out by going to the Sky Tower, which you can only access by tram, which while currently undergoing upgrades, looks very old fashioned, and I managed to only get some pictures on my phone, which at the time of publishing was not cooperating, so sorry about that. But the pictures from the tower are across the commercial sector of Hong Kong and the shopping district as well.

Next up we wandered around a church like wot you see in Europe before making a late-in-the-day decision to head to Ngong Ping, aka, Giant Buddha, accessible only by cable car. Lucy and I thought, as the ride drew to a close, that we were supposed to have just taken our seats and any photos should have been taken from those seats, but because we were the only two in the Gondola, we wandered around as we saw fit to take the pictures we wanted, including far off photos of the giant Buddha.

Although we managed to sneak our way up to the Buddha after it had officially closed, we were not so lucky at the next-door temple, and so we got a closed-door photo of it. But otherwise, it was also an interesting trip.

Because we had tiny appetites and had shared a pizza to the point that we both felt like we were about to burst, we weren’t particularly hungry for dinner so we just at raspberries and called it a day, although I did find my favourite foreign cider in the world (Somersby) and then had an adventure trying to open the bottle without a bottle opener. After a fateful failure in India, I did not use my teeth, but instead spent ten minutes with my flat keys prying it open. It was as good as I remembered, and just what I needed.

Our third day in Hong Kong dawned slowly for us, the same as the previous days, and for once, this was not the ideal, as the fish market that we had wanted to see in Aberdeen only ran in the morning, so by the time we got there, it had already finished for the day. However, a nice old lady coerced us into a boat ride on her son’s boat, and then proceeded to tell me in great detail about every single one of her three hundred (or thereabouts as it felt) children. Her son, during the tour was fascinated with telling us the prices of everything that we could see from the boat, including flat prices per month, how much the fancy yachts cost, and the price of a plot of land at an overcrowded cemetery. However, without any tutelage, he was able to work my camera better than I can.

After yet another supposed-to-be-Chinese-but-ended-up-Japanese meal we ended up at the Avenue of Stars, which I’m sure is fascinating for Chinese and Hong Kong-ian people, due to them all being stars of the Chinese silver-screen, but held little interest for me, as I barely knew any of them.

However, seeing the Sky Tower from the other side, so to speak was interesting and I was happy enough to sit there and watch the sunset, seeing how the colours of the river/water change, and the lights come on, on the “traditional” boats (the sails were for decoration and tourists; they were actually powered by motors).

And then Lucy was leaving and I had twenty-four hours left in Hong Kong during which I did nothing before I came home for my European leg of this crazy year of adventure.

For those who are concerned, despite the fact that this was the first weekend that the protests in Hong Kong expanded to the airport and started to become violent, we saw literally nothing save one sticker about it, and one MTR line had a live news feed. But at no time were we near any of it, and we saw nothing in regards to it, which in my opinion, was the best thing we could have hoped for.

Guangzhou(nly) a Train Ride Away

After the whirlwind of the end of term, we only had one day to recover before Lucy and I headed on our next adventure: Gunagzhou. And it was an adventure indeed. We did a lot; we went to a safari park and saw pandas, we saw really big Buddhas, I took a sneaky picture of a man, I found The Dress, my feet died, we ate actual Chinese food. And I took several hundred pictures.

We hit a snag right from the off. I’d tried to book a train the day before as we knew that the trains to Guangzhou get fully booked regularly, but when we got to the station, the booking code was not legitimate and even now, I haven’t received confirmation of booking, although that might be because I cancelled it. So we had to buy tickets all over again. We were at the station at around 2pm. The next train available was 9pm. We had a lot of time to kill. We were both pretty hungry so now that we had our tickets, we headed off in search of food, and we found an Italian restaurant. We ordered food and abused the bottomless drinks situation. I had an utterly delicious carbonara that I inhaled until I was full and then ate very slowly. We also shared a garlic bread, and after a couple of hours, we both just about had enough space for a pudding. And we were on holiday after all. We wandered the shopping mall for a while after, as many tables had been filled and emptied in the time we sat there. We found massage chairs and both of us made the mistake of enjoying the first massage so much, that we got a second one, and it hurt a lot. The chairs did very deep massages, and two was too much. But hey, you live and learn. We found a Swedish shop which was very dangerous and we both bought too many souvenirs there. And finally, we got the train to Guangzhou. Once there, we got a Didi (Chinese version of Uber) to the apartment we were renting as we were too tired to try and deal with the Metro. It was a very cute little apartment, with just enough room to swing a kitten, but it had everything needed.

The next day, our adventure started for real. Lucy had found a safari park and after slow start, we went there. the park was insane. It was incredible. We saw so many animals and so many baby animals. They seemed to have a great breeding programme across the board.

We saw pandas, tigers, white tigers, giraffes, hippos, bears, elephants, chimpanzees, monkeys, mandrills, ostriches among others. So let’s have a look at some pictures.

We didn’t get a chance to see everything there, partly because it was just so big, and partly because about half way through the day, the heavens opened (there was the minor issue of a typhoon hitting the coast and weren’t far from the coast) and while neither of us minded getting wet because of how warm it still was, we were concerned about our technology – cameras, phones etc. We didn’t want them getting wet.  We must have spent about an hour cowering under the insufficient protection of two umbrellas; Lucy’s and one of those used in the UK to shelter our weak bodies from the sun, before we made a run for it and found ourselves in one of the gift shops. It was doing a roaring trade in floor-length-extra-large macs. Of course, Lucy and I had to get in on that, as we were both of a stature to have room to spare in these coats, under which we could shelter our technology and still see the rest of the park. And so we carried on, but the time spent sheltering from the downpour meant valuable time wasted not seeing the animals. However the damp tiger cubs were cute.

By the time we got kicked out of the park and got back to the Airbnb, we were cream-crackered and just wanted to go to bed, so we did.

Day two saw me making possibly the biggest mistake of the trip. Instead of wearing my slightly damp trainers, which we tried, tested and proven not to give me blisters, I decided to opt for my sandals, which I knew weren’t all that nice on my feet, but I hadn’t realised how much they bullied them. I was regretting the choice before we even got to the Metro but I was foolish and stubborn and so ignored my feet. By the end of the day they were hotbeds of agony, with enormous blisters on the bottom of my heel, and I was limping.

But my woes aren’t important, the tourist spots are. The first place we went was Guangzhou Museum, hosted in Zhenhai Tower.

The tower dates back to *checks Google* 1380 even though it has been destroyed and rebuilt five times during its history, which makes me think of the Only Fools and Horses bit about the broom. If the handle and head have each been replaced a number of times, is it the same broom? But anyway, it had a lot of exhibits, that were very interesting, and a lot of silver ornaments, as well, because silver stuff was very important to do with the growth of Guangzhou and general trade in China too.

Then we walked to the Temple of the Five Banyan Trees. Not sure what those trees are but they must be important, since the temple is notable for them. I think I found all five of them, but since I didn’t know exactly what they are, I just found five trees in the courtyard that looked the same.

We had two for one day, as the next stop was yet another walk to Guangxiao temple. En route, I found The Dress. The Dress was the dress I’ve been looking for since I arrived, that I can wear to my friend’s wedding in August. There have been many contenders for the dress, two of which I actually bought, but I wasn’t completely confident with either of them. And then I walked into a tiny little shop full of beautiful dresses and the little old lady started basically throwing them at me, calling them all beautiful, and trying to convince me to buy more than one. I tried on maybe five of them, including one with pockets, before I found the one that fit beautifully (the little old lady knew my dress size just from looking at me) and was just gorgeous and I knew I had to get it. There aren’t any pictures yet, because I’m not going to wear it until the wedding, and because these are available to everyone on the interwebs, I’m not even going to describe it. All will be revealed in a few weeks, once the wedding is over.

There were many very large Buddhas all decked in gold, some fat and laughing, some thin with big earlobes, and it was really interesting to see the Chinese people paying their respects, donating foodstuffs to the temple and generally worshipping Buddha. It was also not the most comfortable experience, as we weren’t there to worship. I don’t know Lucy’s religious affiliations, but mine definitely lean more towards atheism than any other religion. But we paid our entry fee same as the others and our respect towards it was in the photos that we took, even if one particularly sanctimonious woman told us off for taking them

The next event was our first proper misadventure of the trip. Following Google Maps to Chen Clan Ancestral Hall, took us to what felt like a dodgy back alley of apartment blocks, and we walked around in circles for a few minutes, although by this point, my feet were weeping in their fabric prison, so we gave it up as a bad job, and decided to head back to the Airbnb so that I could change my shoes, and we could regroup before heading out for food. Google was able to take us to the nearest Metro station and lo and behold there was the Ancestral Hall. There were only 45 minutes until the Hall closed, but we thought that was better than no minutes. But when we got to the ticket gate, they needed our passport or ID card to let us in, which of course neither of us had, because we are sensible tourists and had left them at the Airbnb where they would be safer than in our bags while we were touristing. So we didn’t go in and instead sat on the square outside the hall, listening to a small child play the violin incessantly.

After I worked up the courage to stand again, we followed our original plan, and spent a blissful hour with my feet in the air before I whimpered as I stuffed them back into my trainers so we could head out to Canton Tower.

The tower really is beautiful at night, and was one of the highlights although it was by far the biggest tourist site that we’d been to, and both of us were uncomfortable by the numbers. We were also hungry, so we headed away from the tower to find some food, and it gave us some better perspectives of the tower, since while it is impressive up close, taking pictures is easier from further away.

The next morning was the day we left, but we wanted to see one more thing; the Sacred Heart Cathedral, which was the closest tourist attraction to our Airbnb, so it was a short walk there to find it closed, because that’s what happens to Christian cathedrals on a Monday. But still the outside was pretty impressive and really quite incongruous in the middle of a Chinese city.

Then we were on our way home to collapse and sleep as we were very nearly touristed out.

The End of a Yeara

It’s over. The school year is done. I am officially on holiday, and officially half way through my year here in China. And boy, have I been busy in the build up to the end of the year. There have been parties, performances, practices for the performances, and building myself up mentally to saying a permanent goodbye to all of my older students, as they head off to school. It has been a tiring, sometimes humiliating (but my dignity has long since deserted me anyway, and ultimately interesting experience to see this version of kids moving on.

About a month before, we had been told that we had to do a dance and a performance of Snow White at the graduation. We were grateful that we had a month to practice, and rehearse. And for me to write the performance of Snow White. Hannah, the head of English, had given us a script that was truly awful, and asked one of us to edit it, which I volunteered to do. I ended up re-writing it, making it marginally less terrible, and creepy, but the prince was still a weirdo who wanted to marry a corpse. By process of a wheel of fortune, I got cast as the Evil Queen, and immediately started practicing my evil laugh (not much practice needed; I have a tendency to cackle anyway).

I also ended up voicing three of the dwarves, as although I tried to make their lines simple, the Chinese teachers who played those parts could not get the pronunciation intelligible enough through the microphone. Because we didn’t have enough microphones to perform the show live, we spent most of the last two weeks before the show lip-syncing to our own recordings which was as awful an experience as it sounds. Hannah also employed me to help put the music together so I have three strings to my performance bow; script-writer, score-director, and main-performer.

But before all that, the KA children had to graduate. Lucy and I, she being the other KA English teacher, spent many an hour sitting in the theatre watching our children practice for their own dances and also practice walking onto the stage to collect their little roll of paper, that they had to hand back after. We also had to “wear a pretty dress” and I had my hair done, for graduation photos that I think they got in a digital yearbook.

So, on the Wednesday, the day of the actual graduation and a full week before school finished, I spent a full hour fixing the kids’ graduation caps because they would. Just. Not. Stay. On. They were either too big, and needed to be pinned at the back, too small, or the elastic was too tight, so they would go onto the child’s head and then ping back off. Lucy and I were in the backstage, “keep the kids under control” side of things, while Matthew got the glory of announcing all the children’s English names with a Chinese teacher giving their (funnily enough) Chinese names.

On this day, we did get a couple of pictures with the kids, as their parents wanted them. I was obviously not prepared for this and looked exactly as I normally did, in my least flattering and most comfortable shorts, trainers and some sort of t-shirt with a picture or slogan on it. So I looked absolutely fantastic for these pictures. The professional photographers were there as well, and so there were a couple of pictures of me with the teachers, which I currently don’t have access to but will prove I was not expecting a front of house role.

Then on the Thursday, we were on the stage. Tuesday, we had had a full dress rehearsal, and I was the only person who liked their Snow White costume. My dress was hot and itchy, meaning I had to wear shorts and a vest top underneath it, making myself even hotter, but it made me look slim and evil, and it had a hood so I could “transform” into the old woman who gives Snow White her apple.

Telling the hunter to kill Snow White
With the mirror, yes, the magic mirror was portrayed by a man in tin foil

But before Snow White, we had to do our dance performance. Charlie had literally only practiced it twice, due to the change of the announcer. It was going to be him up until the point that for an unknown reason, they decided to go with Matthew instead. So he hadn’t been practicing the dance with us, as the pay off for doing the announcements meant that they didn’t have to dance.

Our costumes for the dance were sparkly basketball tops and dark shorts. So we had the fun of dress changes off stage, although we really didn’t have as many changes as any of the kids, so backstage was nigh-on chaotic, and we had people rushing around telling us to change more quickly. I’d also been the only one who’d been subjected to hair and make-up as Wei, my friend, really likes doing my hair, and once she’d done it all fancy-like, she decided that my make-up free face needed work as well.

Apparently, I have a similar enough skin-tone that the make-up used for the kids did not look horribly mismatched and actually did look okay.

Wearing my Chinese make-up and fancy hair

After we had performed, Lucy and I were told that we were to go on stage at the end to be thanked for our teaching – this was the first time we would be publicly acknowledged for our work, and once again we had to wear a dress and look more respectable than most normal work days. We ended up hanging around backstage for ages, because we weren’t actually told that it would be directly at the very end, or even if there was a rough time that it would be happening, so we headed backstage, and waited. I actually started feeling a bit ill at this point, a little sick and kind of faint, but I wasn’t going to let it get to me, but it did reduce my enjoyment, if you can call it that, of the flower presentation at the end of the show. I was worried I would have to run off-stage to be sick.

I’m almost tall in China!

Unfortunately for me, this was also the day when I was having the KC teachers end of year dinner and I was also having stomach cramps by now. I told Hannah (who as well as being Head of English is also my KC class teacher) that I might not be able to go, but ultimately decided to push through it, as it wouldn’t be long and I would be able to sleep/park myself on the toilet as soon as I got home. While the cramping lasted all the way to the restaurant, once I started trying to eat, it subsided, possibly because my mouth was in pain instead. I have always said that I am not good with spicy food, that I don’t do it, and that has been proven further true here in China. While straight spice is not typical of Chinese food; instead they blend spices for an excellent flavour and some heat, they really went for it with some of this food, and instead of my mouth being merely on fire, it was throbbing with pain. I have never been so ouchie’d by spicy food and I don’t understand why people like it, if that is the reaction that they normally have. It was a seafood bar and it was generally quite tasty, except for my first taste of oysters, which have little taste, are chewy and slimy, and the one I had was too big to swallow in one and I don’t think I’ll ever have one again. Aphrodisiac, it was not.

They so purdy

However, I did manage to make it through the meal, having far more octopus tentacles than I thought I would, as they are actually tasty, and my stomach held off from being too upset, right until I got back to the flat, whereupon I locked myself in my bathroom for the rest of the night.

At the weekend, from Sunday to Monday, the KA parents of my class pitched in to take all of us teachers, and the families and kids to the Marriott Hotel Shenzhen, which is genuinely a tropical paradise. It is such a beautiful place that I couldn’t believe and pinched myself a couple of times. It also brought home to me in a physical way, how well off these families are. I sort of knew, as I knew that the school was one of the most expensive in the area and there are some really nice cars parked there sometimes (including a gorgeous blue Porsche 911 Carrera – the Mum looked very bemused at my taking a picture of it), but seeing the six-year-old children with their smart phone-watches and the sheer fanciness of the hotel, I realised it in a much more cerebral way.

The whole evening of Sunday was kind of insane, in a great way. There were presentations, casual performances (I may have bust a move or two) and much crying. All the teachers were presented with beautiful glass awards, that were likened to Oscars, and read best teacher in Chinese characters on them, best teacher certificates, and a best teacher passport (apparently, I cannot use it to travel though – but I did check). We gave the children a gift of a framed drawing they did and a beautiful stationary set (still gendered to girls and boys), I had a drink off with the Dads and wine and while there was no winner as such, I did impress them with my ability to drink. I even impressed Maymie (spelling unsure) who is Chinese, but has lived in America, speaks fluent English and has an American husband, with it. I didn’t even drink that much, maybe two or three glasses of wine in total. Even though I felt the first one hitting, since I haven’t really drunk while in China, I was not drunk at any point. The Chinese also seem to have a tradition that you stand up when you do a toast and ideally you should finish your glass. We didn’t follow that entirely, because all of us would then be on the floor, but it was done a fair few times, sometimes with soft drinks instead.

The best (worst) part of the evening was when the Dads read a poem to the Chinese teachers. I couldn’t understand it, except when I heard the teacher’s names, but it brought them to tears and the feeling in it made my eyes prick as well, which primed me for the end of the poem when Maymie said that they wanted to include me but due to being not-Chinese and having a not-Chinese name, they couldn’t fit it into the syntax of the poem, and then she thanked me profusely for all the love and care I had given the children and for teaching them and all I could think was how easy they all were to love, even when they didn’t listen to me in class (pretty common by this point in the term), and how much I enjoyed teaching them. I even got the chance to say this about five minutes later, which I did, through my tears, and since I know after the kitten incident that I am fairly incomprehensible when crying to Chinese people, I don’t know if even Maymie understood what I was saying. But I was definitely not the only teacher in floods and I think we worried the kids, at least by their expressions and they gave us all a hug when we were done. And I just knew that I was going to miss all of these kids so much.

Monday was much more relaxed. We had a lie, I had a full English breakfast, which wasn’t quite right (except for the baked beans which must have been Heinz) but was still delicious and then Dylan asked me to go swimming, so I joined them at the pool and we had a lot of fun there. I took a break for a bit went to the beach and went swimming in the tiny portion of sea that we were allowed to swim in, because I am a sea-lover and have to take a dip whenever possible. I didn’t realise it at first, until I got into the water in the buoyed-off area, and saw the netting attached to the buoys, when I figured out that the seas here have a lot more dangerous sea-life in them than the Mediterranean, the Aegean, or even the Atlantic waters around the UK, and so it was about our safety to stay in that area, so we don’t get got by a Portuguese Man-O-War or some other dangerous thing. I swam some more, caused one of the children to cry by accident. I grabbed his leg, and he went under fully, when I was not intending for that to happen as he was not a strong swimmer and didn’t like getting his face wet. I immediately picked him up and wiped his face and got the water out of his eyes, but I felt terrible for it.

Also in this crazy time, I had been given another class, which on the Tuesday, I would have to teach in front of the parents, having taught them a total of four times before. Four times. I didn’t know the children, I didn’t know how much they knew, or what they knew, because it was a KB class, aka the one class that I don’t have so in the space of four lessons, I had to learn the syllabus and try and work out what the kids knew, work out what games they liked to play and were good at and so on and so forth. So on that Tuesday, I was stressed. Then Hannah told me on the Friday that I had to do a dance with my KC class as well, which I practised once before the performance. So Tuesday was not all that fun for me.

I was with KC and their class first with the parents open day. I watched them do their little show which was very cute, and when they were performing “Music Man” I got up and stood on a table and did the dance for them to copy as they still didn’t know it very well, and come on, they’re four. It was behind the parents. The parents were supposed to film their kids and enjoy how cute they looked. But instead they all turned their phones on me and filmed me capering about on a table so their children could copy me. So of course, having lost all dignity, I hammed it up. I sang loudly, and probably out of tune. I excessively acted out the dance moves. I enunciated. I looked like a complete fool. Then I went to the theatre and performed again, badly, following Hannah who was showing the students what to do. And finally I had my lesson with children I didn’t know. I had managed to get all their names and wrote them all down and put them in a box so that I could pull the names out of a hat and call on each of them at least once. I still managed to miss out two children but I think I managed to call on them in the portion of the lesson where I was not using the box. I caused one child to cry because she got the answer wrong so couldn’t get a block for the tower. I had loads of energy though and other than that, the lesson was not the train wreck I feared it to be.

And at last it was the final day. I was not expecting to teach the class at all. I wasn’t expecting much at all. It was a half day and I spent it with KA. I was asked to teach a final lesson, so I did a rush through of all the tops hits of the games and didn’t really care if they got the answers wrong. At the end of the lesson instead of the usual “boys, go to the toilet, girls drink some water,” I told them all to give me a hug and then nearly got bowled over as they all did. It was the sweetest thing ever. I spent the rest of the morning getting a selfie with every single one of them, and popped into my KC class, because two of my kids in that class were leaving as well. The selfies are going to be made into a collage so I can remember the children, not that I’d forget any of them anyway. I already miss them.

And then the term was over and all I wanted to do was go home and sleep. So I did. The final bit of the morning was the children eating, but unlike the party, it was fairly tear-free and more practical. Once they’d been picked up by their parents, they were gone, to have a care-free summer, while mine is busy, busy, busy. And of course, you’ll hear all about it here.

Gender and Race in China – My Subjective Point of View

This week I am trying something a little different. I’m talking about things that I have experienced and witnessed as a white girl in China. Being white, I am absolutely part of a privileged minority, and it’s not entirely something I’m used to. Sexism is also pretty rife here as well, and so I am going to discuss what I have experienced, in my own limited view. I cannot say that this is the same in all of China, or that my experiences are the same for all women or white people in China, but it is anecdotally what I have come across. I may end up using generalisations, but if someone has had a different time of it, that’s fair and valid and just not what I’ve come across. Also, because I don’t have many pictures for this, I’m going to intersperse the article with pictures of flowers, and wildlife that I saw at the weekend when Lucy and I visited a nearby park.

Dragonfly (red)
Dragonflies (black and white)

I live in a part of China that really doesn’t have that many white people in it, despite its proximity to Hong Kong. This makes seeing other white people (other than my English teacher colleagues) a rarity. Whenever I see a white person, a literally say it to myself, and probably to whoever is with me. It’s exciting for me to see a Western (or at least Western appearing) compatriot. I don’t know what’s going to happen when I arrive back in the UK for my summer holidays (less than a month!) but I may have an excitement attack and go a little giddy. I doubt it’ll last but who knows.

Because of our scarcity, we sometimes get treated a little bit like celebrities. We have people staring at us constantly, approaching us, wanting to have pictures with us, due to the colour of our skin. Lucy told me that when she went to Window of the World with Charlie, so many people wanted a picture that they formed a queue. When Victoria, Lucy and I went to Shenzhen International Garden and Flower Expo Park, we had a couple of people ask for pictures, including an old man who followed us for a good half an hour until we managed to shake him by ducking into a little side garden while he wasn’t looking. Sometimes they don’t want a picture with you, they just take a picture of you. And they don’t even try to hide it or do it sneakily. We’ve each of us caught a number of people doing it.

Every Saturday, when I’m not gallivanting, I go to DnD in Shenzhen. The journey on the Metro normally lasts me around two hours and it’s a perfect time for me to do my Chinese lessons on Duolingo and HelloChinese. Whenever someone who speaks a little English (not many people do) sees me doing this, they come up and speak to me, although I don’t always have to be learning Chinese to be approached. I think it just gratifies them to see that I’m at least attempting to learn their language, even if I am clearly not very good at it – and I am really not very good at it. People come up to me, tap me on the shoulder or whatever and ask me in their (better than my Chinese) best English where I’m from, how long I’ve been in China, why I’m here and so on. I love these interactions, because they’re always positive. I like making friends on the Metro, and I like it when people want to come and talk to me. I have made a friend at the Care home that I pass by every day on my way to work. One of the residents and I have a very cordial relationship of waving at each other and occasionally saying “nihao” to one another. I doubt that would have happened if I weren’t white. And speaking of waving, at the weekend when Lucy and I went to the park, the security guards at a mysterious place we passed waved at us.

Turtle or terrapin? (submerged)
I actually don’t know but I’m calling them turtles for the rest of the post
Turtle (sleeping)
Turtle (swimming)

I don’t know this for certain, because I have been clubbing a grand total of once, but according to Vicky, all white people and especially white girls get a lot of attention at clubs. The one time that I went, I did have an admirer within approximately 0.2s of hitting the dance floor and I wasn’t the only one. I was told before I came out to China that the Chinese men want a white girlfriend, and when we arrived, Charlie was told that all the Chinese girls want a white boyfriend, so I would not be surprised that white girls do get attention at clubs, if only for the men to get bragging rights on scoring a white girl, misogynistic as that could be seen.

Mushrooms (not tasted)

Speaking of misogyny, sexism in general is pretty rife as far as I can see, although sometimes it works out in the women’s favour. Every train on the Metro has a women’s priority carriage, where men can board but it’s what it says on the tin, priority for women. Large car parks for malls have women first parking areas, that are painted pink, and very well-lit and are closer to the entrance to the mall, so that the women don’t have to walk as far in the darker and statistically dangerous lots. After 1am in clubs, women get free drinks (although I’m no totally sure this is a beneficial thing if I’m being honest) while men still have to pay for theirs.

Lady first parking area
It’s pink! The only 2 photos to relate to the actual article

The other side of this sexism is more perfidious and one that hasn’t completely disappeared in Western countries either. In my KC class, whenever it’s someone’s birthday, they all bring in gifts for the rest of the kids, which is very sweet, and the girls all get pink toys or girl-centric toys (little make-up bags) while the boys get blue toys and Rubik’s cubes. When extra-curricular activities are advertised, the girls get taken into one room for the ballet demonstration while the boys go into another for a Kung-Fu display. Girls do girl things and boys do boy things, and while there is a little bit of crossover (3 girls of around 25 do Kung-Fu with the boys) they mostly have to stay to their lanes. And when I tried to put some of my KA boys’ hair into top knots, they all protested it. Only Max finally consented, and then Sunny, his teacher, told me she thought he was a girl. He liked it though and I thought it looked awesome. He went home with his hair up and I will never see that hair bobble again. I’m not too fussed though if it helped to overcome sexist stereotypes.

Berry (blue)
Flowers (yellow)

The other teachers, and especially the head of the school still have a sexism problem, too. Despite the fact that Lucy and I are the teachers for the graduating KA class this semester, the boys are the ones who read their names as each child comes on stage to pick up their little Kindergarten diploma and got the picture with the staff, while we got to organise the kids backstage and get little to no recognition for our efforts this term in teaching the children English. The boys every week record the English sentences, rather than all of us taking turns. And so on. I’m mostly resigned to it now, but that doesn’t mean it doesn’t still rankle.

Butterflies of all shapes and sizes are ubiquitous here and blinking hard to get a picture of as they never sit still
Honestly cannot tell if this is a real flower or not…

So there we have it. My view on my position in China as a white woman. It’s a part of my life and the culture here and there’s not a lot I can do about it. So have another picture of a turtle instead.

Two for one with both dragonfly and turtle

It’s a Magical Place – Losing my (Disney) Virginity

Last weekend, I finally got to fulfil one of my childhood dreams, that has long been cruelly denied to me, mostly by my parents. I got to go to Disneyland.

It was a magical place, not least because of the weather, and even though I’m sure no one really wants to hear about it, I’m going to describe in detail all that took place while I was visiting the happiest place in Hong Kong.

It took us a helluva long time to get there. Door to beautiful Mickey-topped gates, was around five hours. Two hours on the Shenzhen metro, an hour-ish waiting at the train station for the next train, fifteen minutes on the fabulous high-speed train, and then what felt like forever waiting to get through customs. The high-speed train really is amazing. Due to a communication error, we ended up in first class, which was more expensive and not something we’re going to repeat if we can help it, but it was nice to experience at least once, what with its plush leather seats, complimentary service (although that is generally for journeys that are longer than fifteen minutes) and pull out trays that warn you that you could trap and hurt your fingers. No sooner had we taken our bags off, sat down and got comfy, we were in Hong Kong and could no longer use our phones. Thank goodness we had already screenshotted all the info we might need. To get into Hong Kong proper, we had to fill in forms to leave China and then forms to enter Hong Kong, and we had to wait in queues to hand over the forms and be scrutinised by folks. We got a little lost trying to find the underground station that would take us to Disney. All the while, there was glorious blazing sunshine outside. And I was starting to vibrate with excitement.

Hong Kong from West Kowloon train station. We had glorious 40 degree weather all weekend

Once we found the station, withdrawn Hong Kong dollars from our bank accounts and bought our octopus cards from a person who actually spoke English, we were on our way, the Hong Kong metro being very easy to navigate. Disney has its own line from Sunny Bay station, and this train is the cutest (by the way, everything is cute – I don’t think I’ve used that word in my life as much as I did this weekend). It has Mickey shaped windows and hand holds, and little figurines of its most famous characters in each carriage.

The station is bedecked like a classic British train station, with fancy wrought iron sculptures, and its own Disney twist in the shape of Apprentice Mickey’s hat. And directly outside the station is the main archway entrance topped with the world’s favourite mouse.

The promenade was magical and despite it being forty-degree heat, I got goose bumps. I don’t remember which Disney classic was playing, but it certainly was, and there were bubbles floating through the air, banners and pennants of Disney characters and at the end of the promenade a fountain that had Mickey atop Pinocchio’s whale.

Then we entered Disneyland proper, straight into the Main Street (USA) where all the shops and a Starbucks (cleverly disguised as a nineteenth-century café, as all the other buildings were of that era as well) were kept and the main parade and light show would be later that night. We needed to sun cream up, and eat and while it was kind of an accident that we ended up at Starbucks – like I said, it was cleverly disguised – it was an excellent decision as we had a delicious smoothie, and a real sausage roll, like what we get in England!

And then it was time for rides! Which meant it was time to slowly roast, while sweat trickled down our backs, we were in a constant state of SULA (Sweaty Upper Lip Alert), and were only slightly concerned about sunstroke, dehydration etc. The rides were great and the later we got through the day, the smaller the queues were, especially as we moved away from the Avengers/Star Wars (Tomorrowland) section that was by the entrance and by the looks of it, the most modern and recent addition to the park, and was definitely the busiest). Lucy convinced me to ride the pastel monstrosity that was the “It’s a Small World” ride, and, well, I will never be the same again. It was An Experience, that’s for sure.

By the end of the day, we were very tired and wanted to eat, watch the light show and go to our Airbnb. We were carrying our rucksacks, with all our clothes in and we had achy backs and feet. The food that night, was, disappointing. We wanted a family meat feast pizza, but it was sold out, so Lucy had a classic pizza and I had a pasta with mushrooms and cheese sauce, and while it was nice, it was still underwhelming, to be honest.

We found a good spot to sit on the kerb for the light show, and it was brilliant. It was all a celebration of the Mouse himself, and it was a wonder.

By then we were both knackered, and wanted to get into bed, so as the park was closing anyway, we headed out and at Sunny Bay station, asked the English speaking (still a massive novelty as it feels like no one in Shenzhen speaks English) station attendant how to get to our apartment. She told us which bus to get, and when we got off, I had just enough something on my phone to have location services (although not calling or texting) and luckily, we were basically right outside the door of the apartment. Lucy was able to call our host and she did so, in order that we could be let into the building.

From that point we basically collapsed on the (soft and comfortable!) bed, until we could move again to brush our teeth and get ready for bed.

The next day was a lovely slow start as the park didn’t open until ten, and we both deserved a lie in. the weather was as hot as the day before, so we spent most of our money on water, but I also discovered that candyfloss can melt, a previously unknown fact to me. However I was painfully aware after it melted all over my hands and rings, and since I didn’t have a wet wipe, and we were in the queue for a ride, I couldn’t wash them in the toilet, I had to lick and suck it all off. Yum. We made sure we got all the souvenirs we wanted, using our vouchers that we got with our tickets and although we didn’t meet any princesses or other cast members, partly because whenever we wanted to, the queue was already closed (I guess the actors in full suits couldn’t do for too long or they’d overheat) or the wait was ridiculously long and we would rather spend time waiting in line for rides. But I do have some poor pictures of the princesses/cast’s backs and sides and whatever else we could take while not actually meeting them.

We spent the day exploring the rest of the park, doing the rides that we didn’t do the day before, and also redoing the rides we had done the day before, trying to take good pictures of one another (Lucy’s were good of me, mine of her…well she looked great but I never have and never will claim to be a photographer of any ability) and generally having a magical time. At one point, in the Gold Rush Mining Town of Grizzly Gulch, the ladies of the town put on a little musical show which was fun, and the Mystic Manor ride should have had a warning that it was also scary for adults as well as children.

That evening we watched the parade as well as the light show which was also great.

In between the two, we managed to slip into the restaurant that had had long queues at the door the entire time we had been at the park, and honestly, I could see why they had had the queues. The food was expensive but it was orgasmic. I had a carbonara and Lucy had a salad and the quite honestly could have been sub-par but they were still the best either of us had ever tasted, just because we had been so deprived of Western food. Don’t get me wrong, Chinese food is good, but there’s nothing quite like food from home, and even for me of simple tastes, it is in fact possible to get tired of rice. I inhaled that meal like I was a rabid animal, and I didn’t regret a second of it, because about five minutes after I was done, I was uncomfortably full and if I hadn’t eaten it so quickly, I might not have been able to finish it, and that would have been a tragedy worthy of Shakespeare.

Mickey shaped carrot!

Being close enough at the end of the show to capture a picture or two of Mickey Mouse dancing was possibly the perfect end to a magical weekend that brilliantly popped my Disney cherry.

Children’s Day aka An Excuse for Me to Act Like a Child

This weekend, it was Children’s Day in China. Friday, Saturday and today, Children’s Day. No, the maths doesn’t sound right to me either, but kids are fairly important here. I think I’ve mentioned it before, but since China’s One Child Policy ended in 2015, folks have been popping kids out like crazy, and the family traditions are still really strong here. Grandparents don’t necessarily live with the family anymore, but they do play a huge part in the family life. For example, one of my kids, Lawrence, has never been picked up or dropped off by his parents, but by his grandma, who seems like a lovely lady, by the way. So Children’s Day was a pretty big deal.

As such, we’ve been being told for the last month or so that we will have lessons to teach on Friday that won’t be like normal and that they would be about water. That was it. That was all we were told. We tried to ask for some more specificity to do with water, as in case you haven’t noticed, it’s a pretty big topic. We got nothing. On Monday, while the kids were enjoying an unexpected bonus day at home due to a red weather warning for heavy rain (no one told us that this was in place, so we thought it was a normal day until we got to school), we planned a bunch of games that we could play that involved water and water based vocabulary. Charlie cut out fish, I made dice (that I could fortunately use multiple times), and we were given a dance that we apparently had a month to learn – bearing in mind that only Lucy can dance – and was really difficult.

Our lesson plans were summarily dismissed and after lessons on Tuesday, we were given a dance lesson. And told that we were performing on Friday, so good luck folks. Luckily (or unluckily, I still haven’t decided), it was not the dance we had been given the day before but a different one, that while it was quite a bit simpler, was still not learn-able by Friday. Between Tuesday evening and Thursday morning, we had spent approximately an hour trying to learn this dance (apparently the parents learned it in this amount of time, to which I say good for them, but it was not enough time for us) so we revolted and spent a good hour and a half on Thursday morning watching the video that had been taken during our Tuesday lesson to try and actually remember the moves. We did not care about being in time, just that we did the moves in the right order. Of course, we still did it with a huge amount of complaining that we had to do it and that it would look rubbish.

Me, Lucy and Charlie, ready to perform. Thanks to Lucy for the picture.

Anyway, Friday finally rolls around and we come into school with little exact idea of what would be happening, because telling us just wouldn’t be as much fun, and would be breaking the character of the school. We had a timetable but it wasn’t exactly specific. We had no idea if we would actually be teaching lessons or not.

I went to my KC (littlies) classroom as that is who I was with in the mornings this week, and fairly quickly, kids with their parents began arriving, so I put on my best “I’m the fun teacher who you don’t understand but it doesn’t matter because I’m so outgoing” persona, despite feeling like death warmed up due to a cold – although at this point in time I was still insisting it was a bad case of hay fever – and wanting to go back to bed. Sarah, the KC teacher taught a lesson in which I helped out with English words and pronunciation, before the kids did an “under the sea” art project with their parents, which was, predictably, near chaos.

Once all the artwork had been hung up to dry, I bustled over to the theatre to tog up in my culturally appropriative costume for our dance, and we performed. It was terrible fun. There is a video somewhere and no, it will never be published. What’s left of my limited dignity would never recover.

Then was the kid’s “fashion show”. This seemed to be mostly the kids dressing up in various costumes then walking onto the stage and off again. I have many pictures of this, most of them terrible as I was not the official cameraperson, I was the official kid-corraller. I will share a couple of my favourites, but again, I don’t want to put too many pics of the kids up as they’re not my kids, and the internet is a nasty place. And a lot of the kids were in swimwear of some sort. 

Some other highlights that I didn’t manage to get photos of: Dad as a crocodile while the kid was a chick; the cuteness of the twins Rachel and Raymond in matching cow onesies; fairies; a leprechaun; a caterpillar; and general cuteness that comes from being 4 and dressing up.

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After the fashion show. Some kids had changed out of their fashion show costume, but hadn’t changed into their swimsuits yet

After the fashion show came the fun part. At least for me, but the kids and even the parents seemed to enjoy it. The water fight. At first, it was just the kids squirting each other with their water guns. But then one bright spark (and I don’t remember who it was (it was a parent)) thought it would be funny to blast Lao Shi Katie with their SuperSoaker. Lao Shi Katie didn’t have a water gun to use to get them back, so she just splashed them. War ensued. And I realised that I couldn’t stay in my white t-shirt, so after a quick change, I fought with a vengeance. It was a war with no winners. Sarah found a jug, the parents were vicious opponents. Washing up bowls got involved. I lost my shoes. I had water thrown at my face so hard it disodged one of my contact lenses. Wei got pushed into the paddling pool (I pushed her after she tried to push me). I had been given a poncho type thing to wear, but 1. That’s no fun and 2. They didn’t work anyway as they ripped and as soon as someone poured a jug of water over your head, they were next to useless.

Unfortunately, I have no pictures of this event, because as soon as I realised that I was going to get wet, I abandoned my phone so it wouldn’t get involved. Hannah has given me some pictures, but I’m not going to post them as they have young children who are not mine in not much clothing, and I’m not comfortable putting them on the World Wide Web. All I will post is a very happy me, afterwards, once I’d walked home in the rain, not bothering with my umbrella, as that would be like closing the stable door after the horses have bolted.

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The afternoon was very similar. Except the parents did the dance instead of us (they were not as good as us if I do say so myself, so they clearly needed more than an hour), and there was exciting SCIENCE before the fashion show using water and chemical reactions. I was sitting behind the official camera person, so my pictures are even worse than the others, but it was very exciting.

There are no photos of the afternoon fashion show as the kids were all in their swimming stuff and I had a more involved job with the corralling of them, especially my pseudo-son King (one time, someone mistook me for his mother, despite the ethnic differences because I spent the whole field trip just looking after him, but that’s because he’s naughty, doesn’t listen, and needs one-on-one supervision).

For the afternoon water activities, I was adopted by Kevin as his parents weren’t there, and I dutifully helped him with his tasks, until it devolved into another water fight, once again with buckets and vicious parents. Charlie broke a bucket and threw Vicky into the paddling pool. I soaked Lucy multiple times and may have ruined my shoes (every time I took a step after, they bubbled. I don’t think shoes are supposed to do that). I threw a number of children into paddling pools, mostly after they shot me. I had a blast.

After the school day ended, we were invited to dinner with the teachers. And we went to…wait for it…a seafood place. Great. It wasn’t that bad, the shrimp were spicy and alright, but not worth the effort. The others can rest easy knowing that when they have them at school I will still donate my portion to them. I was feeling very rubbish by this point and all my pep had been used up so I went home after the food and felt sorry for myself for the last few hours of the day, finally admitting that it wasn’t just very bad hay fever. Though to be fair, I was due to be ill, since I have yet to be truly ill while here in China. It was worth it though for the totally awesome day I had.

(Be)Guilin Adventures

Karst – limestone and other soluble rock has dissolved over time to form a pretty landscape

Two weeks ago, we had a funky holiday situation. We had a bank holiday on the Wednesday, but so that we could have Thursday and Friday off, we worked both Sundays either side of it. They were very much not fun and none of us liked working them. But, we did have four days off in a row, and Hannah, the teacher of my KC class invited me to go to Guilin with her. I knew nothing about the place but I did know that I wanted to explore China, so I said yes.

This is going to be another picture dump post, but I will have some paragraphs of writing to explain some stuff, because we did a lot in those four days.

Bear in mind however, that I don’t necessarily know a lot about some of the things we saw, as the package was booked by a Chinese person on a Chinese website, so the tour guide only spoke Chinese and I, despite my best attempts, do not yet speak enough Chinese to understand a single word. This was obviously shown to me yesterday, when, on the train, I made a friend. She wants to improve her English and help me learn Chinese, which, yes please, but she said a sentence to me, and I didn’t get a single word from it. Then she told me what it meant – it was a sentence that I had literally just translated on the Chinese learning app I was using, (the reason she spoke to me was to ask what the app was called) but because she spoke at a normal speed, I didn’t catch it. The app talks much more slowly and clearly – it also tells me that I speak Chinese well, whereas Hannah, and my 6-year-old students drill me in pronunciation because I just can’t get it right.

Anyway, point being, I took pictures but don’t always have context behind them, because despite Hannah’s best efforts, she just doesn’t yet quite speak enough English to explain everything that was going on.

*Lots to say about the Solitary Beauty Peak at the Prince’s Palace; it’s located next to the Li river, and the shape of the mountain amplifies the effect of the wind there (it was pretty windy). Inside the mountain, there is a prayer cave of sorts, with a bunch of Chinese holy men carved into the walls, each one representative of a couple of years, about 80 years apart, starting around 100 years ago, and heading into the future by several years. You pray at the one who represents the year you were born, except that due to my unhelpfully being born before the Chinese New Year occurring in 1993, I had to pray at the 1992 man. The peak is a deeply spiritual place, as Guilin is one of the earliest and longest settled places in the country. Also the mountain symbolises the sun, light and therefore yang, while the river is representative of the moon, dark, and yin. Fun fact: Feng Shui literally means wind water. Make of that what you will.

**Entrance test thing. I can’t remember it exactly as it was explained, but basically, anyone who wanted to, could take these tests and the more you passed – in a sliding scale of difficulty – the higher up in government you could be appointed. They were a kind of intelligence test and in theory, and according to this site, in practice too, allowed anyone, be they farmer’s son, fisherman’s son etc., to become a government official simply by passing these tests. this is especially so since schooling has been mandatory for boys for hundreds of years (sorry girls, just like the West, we weren’t allowed until much later). The palace extolled these exams a being some kind of near perfect system, but I sense a little bit of propaganda at play. of course, I could be bitter since I failed the test, due to the tiny issue of not speaking, reading or writing Chinese.

***The Silver Caves – my pictures are not great, due to my not being a professional photographer and the flash/not flash choice presented their unique difficulties. However, the caves are some of the most spectacular places I’ve ever seen, expertly lit up in a rainbow of colours that emphasise their beauty. I’ve never had my jaw literally drop open before I entered one of the main caves in the system (of which most is naturally formed, but to create a better tourist site, connecting tunnels have been excavated, and as such we were underground for around two and a half hours walking through the caves); I thought it was a literary trope, but here, my jaw fell. Words failed me, except the non-word “Cathedralic.” I felt the awe I feel when entering a Gothic cathedral and was stunned by the sheer natural beauty of these rock formations, made over hundreds of thousands of years. Any camera could not do these caves justice, although I certainly tried, in my limited way, having take over a hundred photos. Those here are the best of them, and even they aren’t all that good.

****The show. First of all, apparently, it’s okay to take pictures and record during the performance so initially I was distracted by all the screens, but I personal chose not to take any pictures, so as to enjoy the show to the fullest, and I am so glad I did, as I got to fully live the experience, rather than through a screen. The show was amazing. I didn’t understand much of it, but I didn’t need to, the story was acted through the performances, and there was some English subtitles at times. Throughout, I had goose-bumps. I cried at a woman’s athleticism, as she stood on pointe on a man’s head, while a platform moved up and down below them. Although this was for me the highlight, along with men running along walls, the rest of the dancers and performers were also exemplary. The visual effects were stunning and there was a full waterfall on the stage for part of it, with water effects in the audience as well. The costumes were beautiful and reflective of many aspects of the local minorities’ cultures as well as Chinese traditions, and I feel truly privileged to have experienced it.

*****We stopped at a rural village that seems to have been preserved to be a tourist spot, but apparently, it is also a minority ethnicity in China and the inhabitants still live and work there according to their traditions. They are historically silversmiths and their (presumably, although it could potentially be daily) ceremonial garb reflects this, being heavily draped in silver. They also showed us some traditional music, a use for their silver combs that is not combing their hair, but rubbing the back of it, along with oil into the back and neck. Supposedly, it’s good but it looked like it left bruises as well. We sampled their tea; I liked it, but Hannah didn’t, finding it too bitter. My biggest complaint of China being that everything is too sweet, perhaps this is understandable. This is one of the occasions were I probably missed a loaf of context, because “wo bu shuo zhongwen.”

*******The rice terraces are silver in the spring, green in the summer, golden in the autumn, and under snow in the winter (we were at a pretty high altitude). However, the true silver is only achieved when the sun shines on the waterlogged paddy fields. We were there while it was cloudy and overcast, so while some of them were silvery, the majority just looked muddy brown.

These are just a few of the ~800 photos that I actually took over the 4 days of holiday (I blame my parents since I got the photo taking thing from them), so no doubt I have missed some stuff out, but it does cover the main attractions we went to, and I am sure that of those 800, there are many many duplicates, that I just haven’t yet got around to sorting through any more than picking these out.

I am a bad millennial as well, since while I tried all the local delicacies, I didn’t take any pictures of them, except for the snails on my phone, and since said phone has had a system update, I cannot find the photos on there to lift them off and onto my laptop. So I’ll describe it here. I ate snails (French are better since they are drowned in garlic rather than chilli flakes), rice noodles (noodles made from rice), bear fish (very tasty but goddamn bones), and bamboo rice (nice, but does taste quite woody).

Guilin was such an amazing trip, even though it was only four days long, there were so many things to see and do, you could easily spend at least a week there. I had a great time, despite spending the majority of it somewhat clueless and I had some excellent experiences, which after all, was one of my reasons for coming to China: to have an adventure.

Just China Get Along

So recently, I’ve been feeling a little bit down. Not depressed as such; I just had a touch of melancholy. After some soul searching, I figured out that I was feeling somewhat homesick. This was a surprise for me, as I’ve lived abroad before (somewhere in the depths of the internet is a failed blog that I began of that year, unless several years of inactivity causes it to be deleted), so surely I couldn’t be homesick, if I hadn’t been while living in France?

But I realised that living in France is vastly different to living in China. There are multiple differences, some big and some small that built up for me to then genuinely feel like I was missing home, in a way that I have never felt before, in all my travels and adventuring around the globe.

The major difference that I have felt is in fact the time difference. When I was in France, it was easy to speak to anyone in the UK, as I was only one hour ahead. In the UK, it’s even easier. Here, there is a seven/eight hour time difference – China doesn’t have a Daylight Savings Time/China Summer Time clock change like Western countries do, so now Britain is in its Summer Time zone, I’m only seven hours ahead – which means that if I want to talk to anyone in the UK, it has to be at the weekend, and is normally quite late in the day for me. While that doesn’t generally seem like an issue, it can be wearing to try to schedule a time when both parties are available to talk. It can be difficult enough when you’re in the same time zone nowadays with how busy we all are, so factoring in a time difference of this magnitude just makes it that bit harder. And it’s not just for phone calls and video calls. it’s when I message someone in the morning for me, they’re asleep, so I’m not going to get a reply until about 3-4pm, when my day is well underway. And that’s if they get up early. I’m writing this now at nearly ten at night, and my laptop is telling me it’s only three in the afternoon in England. I’ve been home from work for several hours, and you still have a significant portion of the day left to experience.

I’m in the south-east part of China, not too far from Hong Kong, and the climate is sub-tropical (supra-tropical? I am technically still in the northern hemisphere so I’m above the tropics, right?), with banana plants and palm trees and humidity. Dear gods the humidity. I like heat. Heat is my jam. Humidity, not so much. I am constantly sweaty and constantly wishing to be in a swimming pool, not being pawed at by equally sticky children.

There are so many small cultural differences here, that all in themselves are small and not too difficult, but when all added together, can make China seem like an alien planet. For example, and I’ll admit it’s the difference that I’m struggling with the most at the moment, is that the bread is preserved with sugar. Not salt. No big deal, I would seem, but the bread is sweet and it doesn’t taste like bread and all I’ve been craving for the past six weeks is marmite on toast, or a ham and cheese sandwich. I mean, that’s not the only thing; bacon is pretty high up there, as is gravy, but because I’m eating bread of some sort daily and it is wrong, my fantasies have consisted of these most simple of fares. These are the ones that are the most difficult to find as well. If I want a burger, there are a number of Western joints that will sell you one; Pizza Marzano is China’s name for Pizza Express and I know a place that does a really nice Mac’n’Cheese. Therefore, while I miss cheese, I don’t miss it with the fervour that I do bread that is preserved with salt. My parents like to rub this in by eating a bacon sandwich when we are on the phone together… (just kidding Mother, I love you!)

The language barrier is a huge issue. While I am trying to learn Chinese, and am progressing slowly but surely, as soon as I’m with an actual Chinese person, I understand literally nothing they say. I also do not get understood when I try to speak Chinese, because my language learning app (HelloChinese for no-one who’s interested) lies to me when it tells me that I’m getting the tones right and I’m actually getting them all wrong (as confirmed by a real life Chinese person, and real life Chinese children who laugh at me when I try to speak to them in Chinese). I may have insulted many people while trying to tell them that I’m English and that I have three cats, but I don’t know because I haven’t moved onto the Chinese swearwords portion of the language learning process yet. So I don’t understand them, and they don’t have enough English to understand me either. Inability to communicate is a thing that can cause problems, and when combined with a cultural difference of opinion as well, issues can absolutely arise. They have a little sometimes. Not enough to cause an argument, but enough to have gripes with folks that’s normally worked through with a bit of good-hearted venting. And it’s not just that. The folks that I live with are introverts like me, so while they’re perfectly nice, we sometimes end up being a little like ships in the night, and I then realise that I haven’t had a conversation with an adult in a number of days.

This paragraph is going to be a list of other teeny tiny cultural differences that build up to wanting to be back in the UK: the phenomenon I like to call the “Squatty Potty”, a.k.a. the hole in the ground. There’s no such thing as cold water in the school. They get confused when I fill my bottle at the lukewarm water option. Hot water is seen to be a much healthier option for you, and as the tap water isn’t always safe, I can see the logic behind it, but sometimes, when the temperature feels like 37°C, all I want is an ice-cold water. The hawk/spit – the Chinese see spitting as similar to peeing/pooing; it’s a way to get rid of bad stuff that the body doesn’t need. You get used to it after a while, but the first few times you hear the well-known “hwaaaawk” noise, you still cringe a little. The lack of forks. I have seen exactly zero proper forks since I have moved to China. I am a pro at chopsticks now though, until I have to pick something slippery up, and then I’m as dextrous as a three-fingered monkey. I will admit that I have seen little plastic forks that come with my instant noodles, but they’re not real. The Chinese are direct. They don’t have the social courtesies and formalities that we do to avoid hurting/insulting/discommoding them. They tell you the thing directly. There is no, “please may I have…” in Chinese; it’s “I want…”. They are not prone to giving you compliments. They tell you what you need to improve.

That’s all I can think of for now, but I’m sure that there are more. These are also just things that I have noticed, in my own narrow view of the world. There are probably other cultural differences with further reaching cultural consequences, but I am writing this blog to share my perspective and I am the first to admit that it is flawed and not a complete view of the world. I hope that you can see that with all these things combined, along with the fact that I am in a this foreign country by myself, could cause someone to feel homesick for the first time. Yes, there are other English folks here, and that helps, but two and a half months ago, they were strangers to me. I had no idea who they were and knew nothing about them. Now I know a bit more and that’s good, but it’s not the same as the friends that I’ve had for years and that know everything about me.

I wish I could tell you how I got through the homesickness, as far as I can tell. All I know is that a few days break from the school routine, some nice deep conversations with the English folks, and a couple of long helpful chats from my parents at the scheduled time, and I’m feeling better. It may be temporary but I’m leaning towards the homesickness being more temporary than this improved outlook. That’s what I’m hoping for anyway.